1. Count the blades
Three flat blades means a Micro3. Two blades, keep going. No blades at all? A glass tube with metal caps is an AGU, and a flat fuse with bolt holes is an ANL or Mini ANL.
Most cars use one of six blade fuses, and they're easy to mix up. Here's how to tell them apart in four quick checks, with every type drawn to scale, a size chart, the colour codes, and a true-size view you can hold your fuse against.
Pull the fuse and check these in order. Most people know what they have by step 2.
Three flat blades means a Micro3. Two blades, keep going. No blades at all? A glass tube with metal caps is an AGU, and a flat fuse with bolt holes is an ANL or Mini ANL.
Measure the coloured body across. About 19 mm is an ATO/ATC, about 11 mm a Mini, about 9 mm a Micro2, and around 29 mm a Maxi. No ruler? A Canadian dime is 18 mm across.
Mini width but squat, sitting almost flush in the fuse box? That's a low-profile Mini, about 9 mm tall. A regular Mini stands about 16 mm tall with its blades showing.
The amp rating is stamped on top. The colour confirms it on blade fuses, but Maxi fuses use a different colour code, so trust the number. Replace a fuse with the same type and rating.
Tap a fuse to see its size, other names, colour code and the right fuse tap. Not sure? Answer a few questions, or hold your fuse against the screen in True size.
Hold a loonie* flat against your screen and drag the slider until the circle is exactly the same size. Every screen is different, so this only takes a few seconds once.
*A loonie is the Canadian one-dollar coin, 26.5 mm across. The quarter is the Canadian 25-cent coin, 23.88 mm. Outside Canada? Use a US quarter, 24.26 mm.
Regular blade fuse
Mini blade fuse
Low-profile Mini blade fuse
Micro2 blade fuse
Micro3 blade fuse
Maxi blade fuse
AGU glass fuse
Mini ANL fuse
ANL fuse
The biggest of the everyday blade fuses: the coloured body is about the width of a Canadian dime. Littelfuse introduced it in 1976, and it became the world standard within a few years.
Same size, same slot, same fuse tap. An ATO has an open bottom, so you can see the fuse link between the blades. An ATC is fully sealed, which keeps moisture out. Either one works.
A Maxi. Same shape, but much bigger: 29 mm wide, and rated 20 A and up.
Taller than it is wide, with both blades clearly showing below the body. It's just over half the width of a dime. Littelfuse introduced it in 1989, and it's the fuse you'll find in most vehicles from the last few decades.
A Micro2, which is about 2 mm narrower with thicker blades set closer together. A Mini won't go into a Micro2 slot, and neither will a Mini fuse tap. If you're not sure, measure the body or use True size.
If your Mini-width fuse is short and sits almost flush with the fuse box, it's a low-profile Mini. It takes a different fuse tap.
Same width as a Mini, but squat: wider than it is tall. It sits almost flush with the fuse box, so you'll usually need the fuse puller to get it out. The amps are stamped on top.
The blades are spaced like a Mini's, but low-profile slots are often recessed or sit under a tight cover. The low-profile fuse tap is made to seat properly in them.
A regular Mini. Same width, roughly twice as tall.
The narrowest two-blade fuse. It's taller than it is wide, and the blades are thicker and closer together than a Mini's. Carmakers use it to fit more fuses in a smaller box, so it's turning up in more and more new vehicles.
A Mini. They look alike, but a Micro2 is about 9 mm wide and a Mini about 11 mm. A Mini fuse tap won't fit a Micro2 slot. It's the most common mix-up we see.
The only blade fuse with three blades. Inside are two fuse links sharing the centre blade, so one Micro3 protects two circuits at the same rating.
We stock a single-circuit and a dual-circuit Micro3 fuse tap. Not sure which suits your install? Text us a photo of the fuse box and we'll tell you.
The big one: wider than a loonie (the 26.5 mm Canadian dollar coin), with thick, wide blades. Maxi fuses protect the heavy feeds to whole groups of circuits, so they're usually in the under-hood box.
Maxi fuses have their own colour code. Red is 50 A on a Maxi but 10 A on a regular blade fuse. Always read the number stamped on top.
A glass tube with metal caps on both ends, the older standard for car audio power wires. You'll still find them on plenty of amplifier installs.
A smaller version of the ANL: a flat fuse with slotted ends that bolts into its holder. Common on amplifier power wire up to 8 or 4 gauge.
Mini ANL and ANL fuses are different lengths, so each needs its own holder.
The big bolt-down fuse for main power runs. It goes at the battery end of a heavy amplifier or accessory power wire, as close to the battery as you can get it.
The fuse protects the wire, not the amplifier. Pick an ANL rated for your power wire's gauge and fit it near the battery.
Sizes are nominal and from manufacturer specifications. Always replace a fuse with one of the same type and rating.
Before you fit a new fuse, look closely at the old one. The way the link broke usually tells you why it blew, and whether a new fuse will just blow again.
The fuse is fine. The problem is somewhere else on the circuit, so check the next fuse or the device itself.
A neat gap in the link, with a clear, clean casing, generally means over current, not a short. The circuit drew more than the fuse is rated for, long enough to melt the link at its narrowest point. Fit a new fuse of the same rating. If that blows too, something on the circuit is drawing too much, like an add-on accessory or a failing motor.
A link that's burnt away, with black burn marks or bits of metal on the inside of the casing, is a dead short: a wire or part touching ground. Short circuits are explosive, and it shows. Find and fix the short before you fit a new fuse, or it will blow the same way.
An intermittent short, like a wire that only touches ground over bumps or when a door opens, can sometimes leave a clean break too. More often than not, though, a short circuit blows the link apart. If a new fuse blows straight away, or every time something moves, treat it as a short.
Most blade fuses have two small test points on top. With the circuit switched on, touch a test light to each one. If it lights on both, the fuse is good. If it lights on one side only, the fuse is blown.
Corroded or discoloured blades, or melted plastic around them, point to a poor connection heating up in the fuse box. Clean or replace the terminal, not just the fuse.
Blade fuses are colour-coded by amp rating, and the colours are the same across ATO/ATC, Mini, Low-profile Mini, Micro2 and Micro3. Maxi fuses use their own code.
Red is 10 A on a blade fuse and 50 A on a Maxi. Some aftermarket fuses use their own colours, too. Read the number stamped on top, and always replace a fuse with the same rating. A bigger fuse doesn't fix a problem: it lets the wire overheat instead.
An add-a-circuit fuse tap takes the place of a fuse in your fuse box. It holds the car's original fuse plus a second fuse for your new circuit, so both stay protected. It only works properly the right way round, so try it both ways below.
Every common car fuse at a glance. Tap a name to open it in the identifier above.
| Fuse | Width × height | Blades | Ratings | Also called | Where you'll find it |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| ATO / ATC | 19.1 × 18.8 mm | 2 | 1 to 40 A | APR, Regular, Standard, AF | Older vehicles, trucks, RVs and add-on fuse blocks |
| Mini | 10.9 × 16.3 mm | 2 | 2 to 30 A | ATM, APM, AF2 | Most vehicles from the 1990s on |
| Low-profile Mini | 10.9 × 8.8 mm | 2 | 2 to 30 A | ATM-LP, APS, ATT, LP-Mini | Fuse boxes with little room above the fuses |
| Micro2 | 9.1 × 15.3 mm | 2 | 3 to 30 A | ATR, Micro 2-blade | Many newer vehicles |
| Micro3 | 14.3 × 15.3 mm | 3 | 3 to 15 A | ATL, Micro 3-blade | Newer vehicles. One fuse protects two circuits |
| Maxi | 29.2 × 34.3 mm | 2, wide | 20 to 80 A | MAX, APX, AF3 | Under-hood fuse boxes |
| AGU glass | 10.3 × 38 mm | Metal caps | High current | Glass fuse | Older car audio installs |
| Mini ANL | Bolt-down | Slotted tabs | High current | MANL | Amplifier power wire |
| ANL | About 82 mm long | Bolt holes | High current | Wafer fuse | Main amplifier and battery feeds |
Swipe the table sideways to see every column.
Sizes are nominal, from manufacturer specifications. Blade fuse sizes are the overall width and height, blades included.
Most wrong fuse taps come down to one of these four.
The same fuse, really. Both are 19.1 mm wide and fit the same slots and the same fuse tap. An ATO has an open bottom, so the fuse link shows between the blades. An ATC is fully sealed, which keeps moisture out.
The big one. A Mini is 10.9 mm wide, a Micro2 9.1 mm, and the Micro2's blades are thicker and closer together. They're not interchangeable, and neither are their fuse taps. If you can't tell by eye, measure the body or use True size.
Same width, different height. A low-profile Mini is only 8.8 mm tall and sits almost flush with the fuse box, where a regular Mini stands 16.3 mm tall with its blades showing. Low-profile slots take the low-profile fuse tap.
Same shape, very different job. A Maxi is 29.2 mm wide, rated 20 A and up, and feeds whole circuits from the under-hood box. Its colour code is different too: red is 50 A on a Maxi but 10 A on an ATO. Don't tap a Maxi slot.
A clean break and a burnt, blackened link mean very different things. Our guide shows how to read a blown fuse, what causes shorts and overloads, and what to check before you fit a new one.
Most cars use blade fuses: ATO/ATC (regular), Mini, low-profile Mini, Micro2, Micro3 and, for heavy circuits, Maxi. Under the hood you'll often also find square cartridge fuses, usually called J-Case, which we don't stock. For amplifier and accessory power wire, the usual choices are AGU glass fuses and bolt-down Mini ANL and ANL fuses.
Only the bottom. An ATO has an open bottom and an ATC is sealed. They're the same size, fit the same slots, and use the same fuse tap.
No. A Micro2 is about 9 mm wide and a Mini about 11 mm, and the Micro2's blades are thicker and closer together. They don't fit each other's slots, so buy the fuse tap that matches.
The colour shows the amp rating. On blade fuses: grey 2 A, violet 3 A, pink 4 A, tan 5 A, brown 7.5 A, red 10 A, blue 15 A, yellow 20 A, clear 25 A and green 30 A. Maxi fuses use their own code, so always read the number stamped on top.
No. The fuse protects the wire. A bigger fuse lets the wire overheat instead of the fuse blowing, which is how wiring fires start. A fuse that keeps blowing means a short or too much load on that circuit, so find the cause, or ask us to.
Look at the link. A small, clean break with a clear casing generally means over current: the circuit drew too much for too long. A burnt link with black burn marks or debris on the inside of the casing means a dead short. Intermittent shorts can sometimes leave a clean break, but short circuits are usually explosive. Blown fuse: short circuit or overload?
The one that matches the fuses in your fuse box. Most hardwired dash cams need two: one on a circuit that's only live with the key on, and one on a constant circuit for parking mode. Pull a fuse from the slot you plan to use and compare it here, or text us a photo.
Once you've matched the circle to a real loonie or quarter, it's close enough to tell a Mini from a Micro2, which are about 2 mm apart. Every screen is different, so calibrate on each device you use. Your setting is remembered on that browser.
Yes. We hardwire dash cams and install accessories, amplifiers, remote starters and alarms at our Markham shop, and every install is backed by our lifetime installation warranty. Book an installation.
Text us a photo of the fuse and the fuse box, with your year, make and model, and we'll tell you what it is and which fuse tap fits.