Key Fob Finder

Find your key fob

Every fob carries an FCC ID. It is the one number that identifies it exactly, and it is printed on the back or inside the battery compartment.

Try anything you can see: EZSDEI7756, ASRA-2503G, ANT-1WAM. Partial entries work.

Don't have the fob in front of you?


Three ways to identify a fob you can't replace by memory

By the number on the back. Every remote made in North America carries an FCC ID — a code like EZSDEI7756 or VA5REH300-1WAM, printed on the back or inside the battery compartment. It identifies the fob exactly. Type it in above and you'll have your answer in a second.

By the antenna in your vehicle. If the fob is lost rather than broken, look at the small module on your windscreen. Its part number tells us which family of remotes your system speaks to, and usually narrows it to two or three.

By the system, if it's an anti-theft tag. Bluetooth tags for Ghost II, IGLA, Starline and Keetec have no FCC ID at all. Pick the system instead.

We list the ones nobody else does

Most sites only show you what they can sell today. We list all 168 fobs we've ever stocked, going back more than twenty years — including the 92 that are no longer manufactured.

That's deliberate. Knowing your fob is discontinued is more useful than finding nothing at all. And it usually isn't the end of it: some discontinued fobs have an exact replacement under a different brand, same FCC ID, direct swap. Others have one that runs on the antenna already in your vehicle. Where neither exists, a new remote kit will often pair to the control module you already have.

And if there's genuinely nothing, we'll buy yours — because the only way anyone gets one of these is if somebody sends theirs in.

Can't find it? Send us a photo of the back of your fob.