Fuse taps, blade fuses, inline fuse holders and ANL fuses for adding accessories, wiring amplifiers and replacing blown fuses. Not sure which fuse you have? The identifier below shows every common type, and can draw them at true size on your screen.
The one that matches the fuses in your fuse box. Most vehicles use one of five blade fuse types: ATO/ATC, Mini, low-profile Mini, Micro2 or Micro3, and our add-a-circuit fuse tap comes in all five. Pull the fuse from the slot you plan to use and compare it with the identifier, or text us a photo.
A fuse protects the wire, not the device. Replace a blown fuse with one of the same rating, and never fit a bigger one to stop it blowing: find the fault instead. For a new circuit, size the fuse to the wire you're running and the load on it. Our relay wiring diagrams show the fuse and wire size for common jobs.
An amplifier power wire needs its own fuse, rated for the wire gauge and fitted within about 45 cm (18 in) of the battery. Use an ANL or Mini ANL holder that matches your wire, or an AGU holder if you're keeping an older install going.
Tap the one that looks like yours to see its other names, size and colour code, and the fuse tap that fits. Or hold it against the screen in True size.
Hold a loonie* flat against your screen and drag the slider until the circle is exactly the same size. Every screen is different, so this only takes a few seconds once.
*A loonie is the Canadian one-dollar coin, 26.5 mm across. The quarter is the Canadian 25-cent coin, 23.88 mm. Outside Canada? Use a US quarter, 24.26 mm.
Regular blade fuse
Mini blade fuse
Low-profile Mini blade fuse
Micro2 blade fuse
Micro3 blade fuse
Maxi blade fuse
AGU glass fuse
Mini ANL fuse
ANL fuse
The biggest of the everyday blade fuses: the coloured body is about the width of a Canadian dime. Littelfuse introduced it in 1976, and it became the world standard within a few years.
Same size, same slot, same fuse tap. An ATO has an open bottom, so you can see the fuse link between the blades. An ATC is fully sealed, which keeps moisture out. Either one works.
A Maxi. Same shape, but much bigger: 29 mm wide, and rated 20 A and up.
Taller than it is wide, with both blades clearly showing below the body. It's just over half the width of a dime. Littelfuse introduced it in 1989, and it's the fuse you'll find in most vehicles from the last few decades.
A Micro2, which is about 2 mm narrower with thicker blades set closer together. A Mini won't go into a Micro2 slot, and neither will a Mini fuse tap. If you're not sure, measure the body or use True size.
If your Mini-width fuse is short and sits almost flush with the fuse box, it's a low-profile Mini. It takes a different fuse tap.
Same width as a Mini, but squat: wider than it is tall. It sits almost flush with the fuse box, so you'll usually need the fuse puller to get it out. The amps are stamped on top.
The blades are spaced like a Mini's, but low-profile slots are often recessed or sit under a tight cover. The low-profile fuse tap is made to seat properly in them.
A regular Mini. Same width, roughly twice as tall.
The narrowest two-blade fuse. It's taller than it is wide, and the blades are thicker and closer together than a Mini's. Carmakers use it to fit more fuses in a smaller box, so it's turning up in more and more new vehicles.
A Mini. They look alike, but a Micro2 is about 9 mm wide and a Mini about 11 mm. A Mini fuse tap won't fit a Micro2 slot. It's the most common mix-up we see.
The only blade fuse with three blades. Inside are two fuse links sharing the centre blade, so one Micro3 protects two circuits at the same rating.
We stock a single-circuit and a dual-circuit Micro3 fuse tap. Not sure which suits your install? Text us a photo of the fuse box and we'll tell you.
The big one: wider than a loonie (the 26.5 mm Canadian dollar coin), with thick, wide blades. Maxi fuses protect the heavy feeds to whole groups of circuits, so they're usually in the under-hood box.
Maxi fuses have their own colour code. Red is 50 A on a Maxi but 10 A on a regular blade fuse. Always read the number stamped on top.
A glass tube with metal caps on both ends, the older standard for car audio power wires. You'll still find them on plenty of amplifier installs.
A smaller version of the ANL: a flat fuse with slotted ends that bolts into its holder. Common on amplifier power wire up to 8 or 4 gauge.
Mini ANL and ANL fuses are different lengths, so each needs its own holder.
The big bolt-down fuse for main power runs. It goes at the battery end of a heavy amplifier or accessory power wire, as close to the battery as you can get it.
The fuse protects the wire, not the amplifier. Pick an ANL rated for your power wire's gauge and fit it near the battery.
Sizes are nominal and from manufacturer specifications. Always replace a fuse with one of the same type and rating.
Already know what you need? Browse and filter everything here.
Fuse taps, blade fuses, inline fuse holders and ANL fuses for adding accessories, wiring amplifiers and replacing blown fuses. Not sure which fuse you have? The identifier below shows every common type, and can draw them at true size on your screen.
The one that matches the fuses in your fuse box. Most vehicles use one of five blade fuse types: ATO/ATC, Mini, low-profile Mini, Micro2 or Micro3, and our add-a-circuit fuse tap comes in all five. Pull the fuse from the slot you plan to use and compare it with the identifier, or text us a photo.
A fuse protects the wire, not the device. Replace a blown fuse with one of the same rating, and never fit a bigger one to stop it blowing: find the fault instead. For a new circuit, size the fuse to the wire you're running and the load on it. Our relay wiring diagrams show the fuse and wire size for common jobs.
An amplifier power wire needs its own fuse, rated for the wire gauge and fitted within about 45 cm (18 in) of the battery. Use an ANL or Mini ANL holder that matches your wire, or an AGU holder if you're keeping an older install going.
Before you fit a new fuse, look closely at the old one. The way the link broke usually tells you why it blew, and whether a new fuse will just blow again.
The fuse is fine. The problem is somewhere else on the circuit, so check the next fuse or the device itself.
A neat gap in the link, with a clear, clean casing, generally means over current, not a short. The circuit drew more than the fuse is rated for, long enough to melt the link at its narrowest point. Fit a new fuse of the same rating. If that blows too, something on the circuit is drawing too much, like an add-on accessory or a failing motor.
A link that's burnt away, with black burn marks or bits of metal on the inside of the casing, is a dead short: a wire or part touching ground. Short circuits are explosive, and it shows. Find and fix the short before you fit a new fuse, or it will blow the same way.
An intermittent short, like a wire that only touches ground over bumps or when a door opens, can sometimes leave a clean break too. More often than not, though, a short circuit blows the link apart. If a new fuse blows straight away, or every time something moves, treat it as a short.
Most blade fuses have two small test points on top. With the circuit switched on, touch a test light to each one. If it lights on both, the fuse is good. If it lights on one side only, the fuse is blown.
Corroded or discoloured blades, or melted plastic around them, point to a poor connection heating up in the fuse box. Clean or replace the terminal, not just the fuse.
Colour codes for every blade fuse, the fuse types people mix up most, and an interactive demo of how a fuse tap works and how to test it in 10 seconds.
The one that matches the fuses in your fuse box: ATO/ATC, Mini, low-profile Mini, Micro2 or Micro3. Use the identifier above, or text us a photo of your fuse box and we'll tell you.
No. The car's original fuse goes in one slot and a fuse rated for your new device in the other. We stock ATO/ATC, Micro2 and Micro3 fuses.
No. The fuse protects the wire. A fuse that keeps blowing means a short or too much load, so find the cause instead.
Yes. We hardwire dash cams and install accessories, amplifiers, remote starters and alarms at our Markham shop, and every install is backed by our lifetime installation warranty. Book an installation.
Yes. Shipping is $10 on orders under $200 and free over $200.
Text us a photo of the fuse and your fuse box, and we'll tell you what it is and which fuse tap fits.
